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Portrait of Rufus Estes

Rufus Estes

1857 — c. 1939 · Murray County-born American chef; principal Pullman-Palace-Car-Company private-dining-car chef across the principal late-nineteenth-and-early-twentieth-century commercial-American railroad-dining-car community; author of Good Things to Eat of 1911

Portrait: Wikimedia Commons, Creative Commons

Rufus Estes was born about 1857 in Maury County, Tennessee, into slavery, one of the children held in bondage on the plantation of a man named D. J. Estes, whose surname he carried. He was raised amid the hard labor of the antebellum South, set to work as a small child, and freed only as a boy when emancipation came. His formal schooling was scant, yet from these unpromising beginnings he would rise to feed presidents, princes, and the celebrated figures of his age.

In 1883 Estes entered the service of the Pullman Palace Car Company, cooking aboard its luxurious private dining cars as they crossed the American landscape. For fourteen years he perfected his craft in the cramped, swaying galleys of the rails, earning a reputation as one of the finest chefs of the private-car era. Among those he served were Presidents Grover Cleveland and Benjamin Harrison, the explorer Henry Morton Stanley, the pianist Ignace Paderewski, and the Spanish Infanta Eulalia.

Leaving Pullman in 1897, Estes later took charge of the private dining service of the Chicago subsidiaries of the United States Steel Corporation, cooking for its executives and guests. In 1911 he published Good Things to Eat, as Suggested by Rufus, a collection of nearly six hundred recipes drawn from a lifetime at the stove — a work now honored as among the earliest cookbooks written by an African American chef. He is believed to have died around 1939.

From a childhood in bondage to a table set for the powerful, Rufus Estes turned skill and dignity into a lasting inheritance. We honor the hands that fed a nation and the book that keeps his name alive.

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Sources

  1. Rufus Estes - Wikipedia (en.wikipedia.org)
  2. Estes, Rufus 1857–19(?)(?) | Encyclopedia.com (www.encyclopedia.com)
  3. Maury native wrote cookbook | Historic Maury County (historicmaurycounty.com)

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